Retention hyperkeratosis (RHK) is a skin condition where there is an accumulation of dead skin cells within the pores, causing them to become clogged and potentially leading to acne or other skin issues.
What it is:
RHK occurs when the body’s normal process of shedding dead skin cells becomes disrupted. (desquamation). Instead of these cells shedding on a normal basis, they become trapped within the pores.
Common association:
RHK is often associated in connection with acne, as the clogs it causes can lead to inflammation and pimple formation.
Causes:
While the exact causes can vary, RHK can often linked to a genetic predisposition, poor hygiene, and in some cases, can be a secondary phenomenon associated with other conditions like Susac syndrome.
Symptoms:
The primary symptom is the accumulation of dead skin cells within the pores, which can manifest as blackheads, whiteheads, and potentially acne. In more severe cases, it can also cause skin discoloration or a “dirty” appearance.
How to correct the condition?
Treatment typically involves addressing the underlying cause and promoting proper skin shedding. With the guidance from an experienced Esthetician and professional facials you can see improvement very quickly. This might include topical treatments to exfoliate the skin, such as keratolytics, or prescription medications for acne if needed.
In Spa Treatment
- Enzyme Therapy – Papaya, pumpkin, bromelain all gently dissolves keratin buildup without inflammation
Perfect for sensitive or barrier-compromised clients.
- Controlled Chemical Exfoliation – Not aggressive. Strategic. Lactic acid → hydrates + loosens buildup Mandelic acid → slow penetration, great for acne-prone PHA (gluconolactone) → barrier-friendly, huge win for RHK
👉 You’re not blasting the skin, you’re teaching it how to shed again
- Professional Extractions (but done right) Focus on microcomedones, not just visible blackheads Prep is EVERYTHING (enzyme + steam or softening solution)
👉 This is where clients feel the difference immediately
- HydraFacial / Aqua Exfoliation Combines exfoliation + suction + hydration Helps loosen compacted keratin plugs
👉 Great for clients who want results without downtime
- Dermaplaning (selectively) Removes surface buildup, BUT won’t fix the root issue alone.
👉 Pair it with enzymes or acids or it becomes temporary
🧴 HOMECARE (this is where most clients mess it up)
🚫 What to STOP – Over-cleansing -Harsh scrubs – Random Amazon “miracle exfoliators”
👉 These make RHK worse by damaging the barrier
